• If water use is unrestricted in your area, wash as much silt as possible from the lawn using a garden hose.
• To encourage root development, keep the remaining silt crust broken throughout the growing season, or until grass has become well-established. Use a steel tooth garden rake, a mechanical aerator, or spiking equipment to break up the silt crust.
• Apply a nitrogen fertilizer to the lawn. Use whatever grade fertilizer you can obtain, applied at a rate of one pound nitrogen per 1,000 square feet of lawn area.
• Have a soil sample tested as soon as possible to determine lime, phosphorous and potassium requirements of soil. Follow the recommendations given with test report.
• If lawn recovery is spotty or generally thin, mechanically aerate the lawn four to six times in late summer or early spring. Then overseed with a desirable permanent seed mixture.
• In southern areas, vegetative sprigging or plugging may be preferable to seeding.

• Remove as much silt as possible, especially if silt accumulation exceeds 3 inches.
• If silt is less than 3 inches, or has been removed to this depth, till the area, making sure the silt is mixed thoroughly and uniformly through the top 4 inches of the original soil.
• Take a soil sample of the new soil mixture after silt has been mixed in. Have the mixture tested to determine lime, phosphate and potash requirements.
• Retill after applying lime and fertilizer according to soil test recommendations.
• Reseed or vegetatively replant the area as you would to establish a new lawn. Vegetative plantings of warm season grasses may be made any time during the growing season. Seedings, especially of cool season grasses, should be made in early spring or late summer.

Flooded lawns...

Degree of injury will depend on duration of submergence, water depth, temperature, grass species, light intensity and the condition of grass prior to flooding. Grass will survive much longer at water temperature below 60°F than at higher water temperature. Most grasses will survive 4 to 6 days’ submergence at normal summer temperatures. Aerate and lightly fertilize flooded areas as soon as possible after the water recedes. Areas submerged longer than 4 to 6 days may not survive and will require complete re-establishment as noted above.

Loss of Topsoil - Eroded Areas...

Establishing temporary lawns...

Oil and chemical spills...

Soils may have been saturated with oil, herbicides, or other toxic material. Petroleum will eventually decompose, but nothing can be done in the meantime to counteract its harmful effects. On large areas, bury oil deposits by deep plowing. On small areas, remove petroleum-soaked soil to a depth of 6 inches, and replace with new topsoil. Reseed or vegetatively plant at the appropriate time.

Turf diseases...

Turf diseases may be prevalent on surviving turf areas. Contact your County Extension Agent for advice on fungicide application.

Weeds...

Flood water may carry and spread weed seeds. However, weed control should not be a primary concern since a weed cover is better than no cover and will even help dry out soil. Weeds can be controlled best with chemicals in the fall or spring. Contact your County Extension Agent for proper chemical controls.

CHECKING  DAMAGED  BUILDINGS

SAFETY PRECAUTIONS IN ENTERING DAMAGED BUILDINGS

Use extreme caution when entering any damaged building:

• If you must enter at night, carry a flashlight or other light.
• If gas lines are broken, turn off gas at the meter or tank.
• Do not smoke or use any open flame.
• Watch for loose plaster and ceilings that could fall.
• Open as many doors and windows as possible to remove moisture, odors and flammable or toxic gases.
• If windows are stuck tight, take off window strips and remove entire sash.
• If doors are stuck, drive out door hinge pins with a screwdriver and hammer, and remove doors.

Foundations...

If you are not qualified to judge the stability of a foundation, hire a contractor to make this inspection. A neighborhood might join together in hiring a contractor for this work.

Examine foundations and supports for undermining.

• If walls or foundations have settled or cracked, uncover footings and raise, reinforce or brace any settled sections.
• Be extremely careful when uncovering footings, because of the possibility of cavernous washouts.
• If underlying material has been washed away, fill spaces to within one foot of the footing with gravel or cmshed rock. Fill the remaining space with concrete reinforced with steel rods.
• Check piers for settling or shifting.
• If the building has shifted or floors have settled badly, temporary bracing might be needed until extensive work can be done.
• Drain any crawl spaces which contain water.

Walls and ceilings...

• Wash out mud, dirt and debris as soon as possible with a hose and mop cloth or sponge. Clean before silt or mud dries.
• Start cleaning from the top floor or upper limit of flooding and work downward toward the first floor or basement.
• Check walls with a level or plumb bob.
  Brace walls where necessary.
• Check mudsills, plates, soles, and anchorage. Replace or repair where necessary, using redwood, cedar or treated lumber.
• Speed drying of flooded studding and insulation by removing all siding strips or plaster from upper and lower parts of the wall.
• Do not repaint walls until they are completely dry. This might take several months. Flooded insulation may be ruined.
• Remove all loose plaster.
• After house is completely dry, repair damaged plaster on walls and ceilings.
• Badly damaged plaster walls can be resurfaced with gypsum board or plywood.

Floors...

• Flooded wooden floors will dry out slowly. Do not build fires to speed up their drying, as this could cause cracking or splitting from uneven drying. However, if the central heating system is operating, keep the temperature of the house at 60 to 70°F to hasten drying without causing additional problems.
• To prevent further buckling and warping, drive nails where the floor tends to lift or bulge.
• After floors are completely dry, plane or sand them level.
• If floors are too badly damaged to be refinished, lay a new floor over the old, or cover with carpet, vinyl or linoleum.
• If a concrete floor is badly damaged, break it up and install a new floor. If the damage is minor, patch with a rich mixture of concrete containing no coarse gravel aggregate.

Roofs...

• Plastic sheeting or roll roofing can temporarily repair solid deck roofs covered with asphalt or wood shingles or roll roofing.
• Use knife-consistency patching compounds to repair minor leaks.
• You will probably have to replace damaged metal roofing on a spaced roof deck. 

Priorities will vary with kind and seriousness of damage. Buildings may not be habitable during repair.

Examine building structure...

• Check foundations for settling, cracking or undermining.
• Examine walls, floors, doors and windows to determine what repairs are necessary.
• You may want to repair only temporarily until extensive work can be done.
• If basement is flooded, start pumping the water in stages. Pump about a third of the water each day.
• Get electrical system in operation.
• If switchbox is in a flooded basement, do not turn electricity back on until water has been pumped out.
• Take electrical appliances to a qualified service repair center as soon as possible.
• Get water system working. Disinfect wells and water system.
• Shovel out mud and silt before it dries.
• Before they dry, wash down flooded walls and floors with hose.
• Start at upper limit of flooding and work downward.
• Scrub and disinfect walls and floors.
• Start heating system, if possible, to speed up drying.  Before operating it, heating system may need to be cleaned, dried and reconditioned.
• Make sure chimneys are clean before starting system.

Dry out walls and floors...

• If required for proper drying, strip drywall up to water level.
• Drill holes in exterior siding.
• Complete drying may take months.

Repair buckled walls and floors...

• Clean and dry household items, furniture, carpets, clothing, dishes and bedding.
• Disinfect when necessary.
• Treat items for mildew as needed.
• Care for damaged trees, shrubs and lawn.
• Repaint, repair and refinish as necessary.

Supplies and Equipment for Home Clean-Up

Cleaning supplies...

• Low sudsing detergents
• Bleaches
• Disinfectants
• Ammonia
• Scouring powder
• Rubber gloves
• Strong boots or heavy-soled shoes

Equipment for small jobs...

• Buckets
• Tools (crowbar, hammer, screwdriver)
• Sponges and cloths
• Scrub brushes
• Scoops
• Throw-away containers for garbage, house to Street
• Water hose

Equipment for large jobs...

• Buckets
• Tools
• Brooms
• Shovels
• Hoes
• Sponge mop or mop that is easily squeezed out
• Water hose
• Wheelbarrow
• Dolly
• Bushel baskets
• Wash tubs (for soaking objects)

Home Clean-Up and Renovation

Check walls and foundations for damage. Much can be done to reverse the effects of high water and to restore even heavily water-damaged buildings. Make sure to repair structures as soon as possible. Here are a few key points:

• Check foundations and footings. Start from the bottom when investigating structural features. See that underlying material has not washed out. Filling under the footings should be done with masomy or concrete, never with earth or gravel. Raise or brace up in position to make floors level.
• Wash out the mud, dirt and debris as soon as you can. This should be done before the walls and floors dry out. Start from the top or upper limit of the flooding and work downward, using a hose and mop or washrag.
• Dry out the building and the crawl space under the building. Open doors, windows and foundation vents for good ventilation. If electric power is available, use electric fans to improve circulation. Drying will take considerable time - several days or even weeks, if the weather is damp. Wet wood will decay; dry as soon as possible to reduce decay and mold.
• Insulated frame walls may require special drying. Strips of siding, gypsum board or plaster can be removed from upper and lower portions of the walls to speed up drying of the studding and insulation.
• See that walls are plumb. Check with a level or plumb-bob. Correct and brace walls to keep them vertical.
• Repair and patch where necessary, on a temporary basis. Do final repairs later, in dry weather, when more time is available.
• Concrete floors are easily patched using a rich mix of mortar having no coarse aggregate, one to four mix.
• Wooden floors dry out slowly. Don’t build fires to rush drying. Try to prevent buckling and warping by driving more nails wherever flooring tends to lift or bulge. After fully drying, the surface can be planed level or sanded smooth and refinished.

(Source:  The Disaster Handbook - National Edition, Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences, University of Florida, Checking Damaged Buildings, Priorities for Clean-Up and Repair, Home Clean-up and Renovation, Section 5.6, 5.7, 5.8)

CLEANING  HOUSEHOLD  LINENS  AND  FURNISHINGS

Mattresses...

Due to the complex construction of modern mattresses, renovation is usually not possible. It is best to buy a good used mattress or a new mattress.

If a mattress must be used temporarily, scrape off surface dirt and wash with a bleach solution (¾ cup of bleach to 1 gallon of water) to clean and disinfect the mattress. Use gloves when washing the fabric and then expose the mattress to the sun. Turn occasionally to dry. Household fans may also speed up the drying process. Cover mattress with plastic or a rubber sheet before using it.

Feather Pillows...

If ticking is in good condition, wash feathers and ticking together. To ensure that feathers do not come out of the ticking, put another pillow case over the pillow and secure the seams.

1. Prior to placing in second case, open a few inches of the ticking seam to opposite corners of the pillow, turn edges and sew loosely with strong thread or fasten with safety pins.
2. Brush off surface dirt.
3. Wash in machine or by hand in warm (not hot) suds 15 to 20 minutes. Use a disinfectant in the wash cycle. In an automatic washer, do not wash more than two pillows at a time.
4. Rinse at least three times in clear, warm water.
5. Spin off water or gently squeeze out as much water as possible. Do not put pillows through wringer.
6. Dry in an automatic dryer at moderate heat setting, in a warm room with a fan, or across two or three clotheslines. Put several bath towels or a clean tennis shoe in the dryer with pillows to speed up drying and to keep the pillows moving. Allow at least two hours. Shake up feathers occasionally to hasten drying.

If ticking is not in good condition or if pillow is badly soiled, wash feathers and ticking separately:

1. Use a tightly-woven large pillow case which is two or three times larger than the ticking.
2. Open one edge of ticking.
3. Sew open edges of the ticking and the bag together.
4. Shake the feathers from the ticking to the muslin bag.
5. Close seam of bag.
6. Wash bag of feathers in lukewarm, sudsy water and disinfectant.
7. Repeat if necessary.
8. Rinse in lukewarm water, changing water several times.
9. Squeeze out as much water as possible by hand. Don’t use a wringer.
10. To air-dry, hang on line by two corners. Change position end to end and shake feathers occasionally to speed up drying.
11. Wash the ticking if still usable. With a sponge, apply a starch solution to the inside of the ticking or use a spray starch.
12. Transfer clean feathers to the clean, sanitized starched ticking, using the same methods as for emptying.
13. Close seam of ticking.

It is very important to completely dry the feathers to reduce potential odors. If pillows have been badly soiled, it may not be possible to remove all objectionable odors.

Polyester fiberfill pillows...

1. Brush off surface dirt.
2. Wash by hand or in a washing machine in warm water and low-sudsing detergent. Add a disinfectant to the wash water. Flush water through pillow by compressing it (twisting and wringing will tear filling). Change water and repeat if necessary.
3. Rinse three times in clear, warm water.
4. Spin off water in automatic machine. Tumble dry in dryer at moderate setting with several bath towels or press out as much as possible by hand and hang on line outdoors to dry.

Foam rubber or urethane pillows...

1. Remove cover. Brush off surface dirt.
2. Follow manufacturer’s directions if they are available. Otherwise, soak in cool water; then wash in warm suds by hand. Use a bathtub or large sink. Then wash by pushing down on pillow, releasing, and pushing down again. Rinse the same way in lukewarm water.
3. Gently squeeze or spin out excess water. Blot with towels.
4. Dry away from heat or sunlight Do not dry in dryer unless on an air only setting. Pillows may dry very slowly in the air. If the pillows are old they may crumble.

Blankets, quilts and comforters...

1. Wash only one blanket, quilt or comforter at a time.
2. Shake and brush to remove surface dirt. Follow maker’s laundry directions if available. Otherwise, proceed as follows.
3. Soak at least 15 minutes in lukewarm water; turn two or three times during soak period. Several soak periods may be beneficial depending on the amount of soil lodged in fibers. Change water for each soak period.
4. Wash using a mild detergent, disinfectant and lukewarm water.
   Immerse blanket and work suds in gently, using as little agitation as possible.
5. Rinse in several changes of lukewarm water. Soak each time for five minutes turning once or twice by hand. Extract as much water as possible.
6. Hang blanket over two lines to dry so it forms an M-shape, or dry it in preheated dryer with several large dry bath towels. Remove blanket from dryer while still damp and hang over two lines to fmish drying. Gently stretch blanket into shape.
7. Brush blanket on both sides to raise nap. Steam press binding, using synthetic setting on iron. Wash lightweight quilts following directions for wool blankets. Dry outdoors in sunlight, if possible, to remove unpleasant odors.

You may need to take thick comforters apart and wash cover and filling separately.

Washable woolen bedding...

1. Shake and brush well to remove loose dirt. Wash in lukewarm (barely warm) water with mild soap or detergent. Use a disinfectant.
2. Dry in warm place or in direct sunlight.

Electric blankets...

Follow manufacturer’s directions, if available. Most manufacturers recommend electric blankets be washed, not dry cleaned. Cover plug with heavy cloth and follow instructions above. Avoid bending wiring. Do not put electric blankets through a wringer or dry in a dryer, unless manufacturer recommends. To dry, squeeze down blanket lengthwise and hang over two lines.

Sheets, towels and linens...

1. Brush off as much loose dirt as possible.
2. Rinse mud-stained fabrics in cold water to take out particles of soil lodged in fibers.
3. Wash in warm suds and disinfectant several times, if necessary. To avoid setting stains do not use hot water. Rinse well.
4. If stains remain after several washings, try bleaching white cottons and linens. Do not over-bleach. Sun drying will aid bleaching. Bleaches may be used on some colored fabrics; follow directions on bleach package.

Cleaning flood-soiled rugs and carpets...

It is likely that rugs and carpets will have to be cleaned by a professional rug cleaner. However, you can try the following cleaning methods. Dry rugs and carpets as soon as possible to prevent mildew. Mildew is a spreading gray-white mold that stains and rots fabrics.

1. First, remove as much moisture as possible using a dry-wet vacuum cleaner. Dry  blankets and towels can also be used to blot up excess moisture. Lay towels on the wet floor and walk on them to absorb moisture.
2. Then, pull up water-logged rugs immediately to prevent further damage to the floor. If possible, dry small rugs outdoors in sunlight.
3. To get air and heat to carpets, open windows if weather permits or use household electric fans or electric lights suspended on coat hangers. Do not shampoo carpets until they are 100% dry.
4. After carpet is dry, thoroughly vacuum or sweep to get rid of dirt and debris. Move vacuum cleaner slowly to pick up more dirt. Clean off as much crusted dirt and sediment as possible before shampooing.

Shampooing - Some rugs may shrink when shampooed...

1. Use a commercial rug shampoo which may be applied to the carpet with an electrical rug shampooer, a manual applicator, a sponge mop or a hand brush.
2. Electrical shampooers agitate carpet fibers and work shampoo into the pile, removing soil. Do not use themon shag-type carpeting because the long pile can be tangled in the brushes.
3. After cleaning each section of the carpet, brush the wet pile in one direction with the applicator.
4. When the foam has dried thoroughly, vacuum the carpet to remove dry shampoo and loose dirt.
5. If carpet must be disinfected, dip sponge mop in a weak bleach solution (¼ teaspoon chlorine bleach to 1 cup water). Wring out sponge and mop carpet in sections. Use as little water as possible. Caution: Bleach may discolor carpet. Test bleach mixture in an out-of-the-way place before applying.
6. Rinse several times with clear water, wringing most of the water from the mop each time. Change the rinse water as it becomes dirty.
7. Blot up remaining moisture with bath towels or other soft absorbent material.

After shampooing, dry rugs or carpets quickly. Hang rugs on line if possible, or lay them out flat in a warm, dry place. An electric fan will speed up drying. Carpets and rugs should be thoroughly dried to avoid future moisture and odor problems.

Even though the surface seems dry, any moisture remaining at the base of the fiber tufts will cause mildew or rot. If you must walk on the carpet before it is dry, put down brown paper. Vacuum again when dry, and brush the nap in one direction.

Drying books and family papers...

• Dry books and papers slowly
• If books and papers are damp, sprinkle cornstarch or talcum powder between pages to absorb moisture. Leave powder on for several hours and then brush off.
• Books that have sustained water damage should be placed on end with pages separated.
• When pages are partially dry, pile and press books to keep pages from crumpling.
• Alternate drying and pressing until books are thoroughly dry.
  This helps prevent mildew. Use a fan to hasten drying.
• When books are nearly dry, apply low heat with an electric iron. Separate the pages to prevent musty odors. This is a tedious process which you may want to use only with valuable books.
• Some chemicals such as parachlorobenzene may help stop mold growth. Books can be placed in closed containers with moth crystals to help stop mold growth. Contact your County Extension Office for recommendations.
• When books are thoroughly dry, close them and use C-clamps to help retain their shape.
• Books and papers may be frozen until you have time to work with them. Freezing is very effective in controlling mold growth.
• Even if books and papers appear to have dried successfully, they may disintegrate because of materials in the flood water. As a precautionary measure, photocopy important documents or papers, or keep them in a safe deposit box.
• An excellent source of information is the publication, “Procedures for Salvage of Water-Damaged Library Materials” by the Library of Congress, available at your local library.

When to discard, clean or call a professional for flood-damaged carpets and rugs...

When faced with flood-damaged carpeting and rugs, your options will depend on the source of flooding. If floodwater consisted of clean basement seepage or lawn runoff into a sub-basement, drying and cleaning is an easy decision. But if sewage-contaminated floodwater has covered your carpeting, you probably will need to discard it for health safety reasons. You can assume the water and the carpet contain infectious organisms. Throw rugs can usually be saved.

General rules...

• Wall-to-wall carpeting, most large area rugs and any rug with foam backing should be discarded if flooded with contaminated water. Except for valuable rugs, the time and expense of professional cleaning generally is not worth the effort or the health risk.
• If you are determined to salvage carpeting soaked with contaminated water, consult a professional cleaning company that services carpets at its own cleaning and drying facilities. A steam cleaning (hot-water extraction) method is preferable.
• Wall-to-wall carpeting soaked by clean rainwater can be salvaged. Have it professionally cleaned or clean it using the directions below.
• Throw rugs usually can be cleaned adequately in a washing machine.

Cleaning rain-soaked carpets...

Cleaning basement carpeting indoors is not a good idea in summer because you are adding even more moisture to an already wet area. If the carpeting is installed with tack strips you may be able to remove it, have it cleaned and reinstalled. Padding is nearly impossible to clean so it should be replaced.

If you can’t remove the carpeting, dry it as quickly as possible to minimize growth of mildew. If possible, use a wet/dry vacuum system. A dehumidifier can help remove moisture from the air. Keep windows closed when using a dehumidifier.

• When the carpet is thoroughly dry, vacuum the area.
• Shampoo and repeat the drying process. Keep in mind that most modern carpeting is made of nylon and should not be treated with bleach.
• Vacuum again.

You can reduce a musty smell with the following process:

1. Sprinkle baking soda over the carpet, working it in with a broom or sponge mop.
2. Leave the baking soda treatment on overnight.
3. Vacuum the baking soda out. Vacuum twice, moving back and forth in a different direction the second time.

Additional resources...

• Your county family living agent
• Your local emergency government office
• The American Red Cross
• Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA)

Related publications...

• Repairing Your Flooded Home, American Red Cross/Federal Emergency Management Agency, 1992.

Cleaning and sterilizing dishes and cooking utensils...

Before using any dishes, pots, pans or cooking utensils that were in contact with flood water, wash and sterilize them.

1. Any piece of equipment that can be taken apart should be cleaned in pieces. Remove plastic and wooden handles from flying pans and saucepans. Clean parts separately.
2. Wash dishes, pots, pans and utensils in hot, sudsy water. Use a brush, if necessary, to remove dirt.
3. After sudsing and brushing, rinse in clear water. Place dishes in a wire basket or other container and dip them in a sanitizing solution. Use a solution recommended by local health authorities or use ½ tablespoon chlorine bleach to a gallon of water.
4. Air-dry dishes. Do not dry them with a dish towel. If cupboards and food preparation surfaces were in contact with flood water, clean and rinse them with a chlorine bleach solution before storing dishes and utensils.

Cleaning household metals...

Rust causes the most damage to flooded household metals, especially iron. Use the following treatments to control rusting.

Iron pots, pans and utensils...

1. Wash with soap and water, using a stiff brush and scouring powder.
2. If rust remains, wipe with an oil saturated cloth or use a commercial rust remover.
3. Remove rust from kitchen utensils by scouring with steel wool.
4. Wash in hot soap suds, rinse and dry thoroughly.

Season iron pans and utensils with a generous amount of unsalted cooking oil. Heat in a 250°F oven for two or three hours. This will permit oil to soak into pores of metal. During the heating process apply more oil as needed. When seasoning is completed, wipe off the excess oil.

Hardware...

1. Coat iron hardware with petrolatum or machine oil to prevent further rusting.
2. Use stove polish on stove or similar ironwork.

Locks and hinges...

Locks and hinges, especially those made of iron, should be taken apart, wiped with kerosene and oiled. Follow the same procedure as for iron hardware.

If it isn’t possible to remove locks or hinges, squirt a little machine oil into the bolt opening or keyhole. Work the knobs to distribute the oil. This will help prevent rusting of the springs and metal casing (Do not use too much oil as it may drip on the woodwork, making painting difficult.).

Stainless steel, nickel-copper alloy, nickel or chrome-plated metals...

1. Wash thoroughly and polish with a fine-powdered cleanser.
2. If furniture plating or hardware is broken so that base metal is exposed and rusted, wipe with kerosene and then wash and dry the surface. Wax to prevent further rusting.

Aluminum pans and utensils...

1. Wash thoroughly with hot sudsy water. Scour any unpolished surfaces, such as the insides of pans, with soapy steel wool pads. Rub in one direction only.
2. Polish plated aluminum surfaces with a fine cleansing powder or silver polish. Do not scour.
3. Sterilize in a chlorine solution.
4. To remove dark stains from aluminum pans caused by alkaline foods, fill pan with water. Add 1 tablespoon vinegar or 2 teaspoons cream of tartar for each quart of water. Boil for 10-15 minutes, scour with steel wool pad with soap, rinse and dry.

Copper and brass...

1. Polish with a special polish or rub with cloth saturated with vinegar or with a piece of salted lemon.
2. Always wash copper thoroughly with soap suds after using acids or commercial polishes or they will retarnish rapidly.
3. Wash lacquered ornamental copper in warm sudsy water. Rinse with warm water and wipe dry. Do not polish. Do not soak.

Pewter...

1. Wash thoroughly with hot sudsy water, rinse and dry. Use a soft toothbrush to get into crevices.
2. Rub on silver polish (paste or liquid, not the dip type) with a soft cloth. Use a soft toothbrush to get into crevices.
3. Rinse in hot soap suds and dry.
4. Check for small holes, cracked joints and dents. If the pewter needs mending and is a prized piece, let a professional fix it.
5. Small holes can be mended by cleaning the metal inside the pewter object with steel wool, then filling with pewter epoxy mender. Follow instructions on the label carefully.
6. Felt or other protection materials that have separated from household decorative accessories such as bookends, ashtrays and candle holders should be replaced. Felt or protective materials can be purchased in fabric stores, cut to match those damaged and glued in place with rubber cement.

(SOURCE:  The Disaster Handbook - National Edition, Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences, University of Florida, Cleaning Household Linens and Furnishings, Section 5.23; Drying Books and Family Papers, Section 5.26; Cleaning Household Utensils and Metals, Section 5.27)

Prompt and sanitary disposal of animal carcasses is necessary to protect the living animals in an area from disease.  Search all pastures for dead animals as soon as possible. Carcasses may have some commercial value, so send them to a rendering plant if possible. If rendering is impractical, dispose of the dead animals on the premises.  Use the following procedures:

• Immediately after finding a carcass, cover it with crude oil or kerosene to keep away dogs, buzzards and vermin.
• Fat swine are the only animal carcasses that will burn satisfactorily.
• Used railroad ties can be used as starters for a fire.
• Bury other carcasses. Use power equipment if it is available.
• Choose a site where subsurface drainage will not reach water supplies.
• Bury the carcasses at least three to four feet deep, so predatory animals won't be able to reach them.
• If quicklime is available, cover carcasses with it before backfilling. Quicklime will hasten decomposition.
• Contact your local county animal control office for guidelines.

• Las companias de seguros hacen contratos con companies y ajustadores que trabajan independientemente para asesorar las pérdidas y para hacer negociaciones por los pagos como representantes de la compañia de seguros.
• Si decide user un ajustador póblico, será obligado a pager un porceritaje de la cantidad del pago del reclamo que usted recibirá de su compañia.
• Usando Ia ayuda de un ajustador publico no significa que el reclamo será pagado rápidamente o que puede obtener una cantidad mayor en el pago de su reclamo.

After a natural disaster, especially one involving flooding, mosquitoes, flies and other insects may be more abundant than usual, posing potential health problems. Filth and debris left by the storm create excellent breeding conditions for house flies and mosquitoes, some of which maybe capable of spreading typhoid, dysentery and encephalitis.

To control insects it is important to remove their breeding places (any standing water, especially stagnant water). In warm weather this should be done immediately after you return to the premises.

Eliminate breeding spots...

• Empty water from barrels, old tires, cans and other vessels (This water may also be polluted by floodwaters and may be a health hazard, in addition to being a breeding place for insects.)
• Check clogged gutters and flat roofs with poor drainage.
• Cover cisterns, cesspools, septic tanks, fire barrels and rain barrels tightly. Wherever possible, drain ponds, pools, or any standing water in which mosquitoes may breed. If drainage is impossible, treat standing water puddles with larvicide oil as recommended by a County Extension Agent.
• Dispose of refuse. Bury animal carcasses as soon as possible.
• Bury or burn garbage at least once a week. Be sure garbage cans have tightly fitting lids. Spread manure and garbage used as fertilizer thinly to dry quickly and not breed flies.
• Clean up debris. In some climates, scorpions may seek refuge in and around buildings during flood conditions. During the day they hide beneath loose stones, loose bark of fallen trees, boards, piles of lumber, and within walls of buildings.

Repair...

• Patch screens and other places where mosquitoes enter buildings. Paint screens with an insecticide solution recommended by your Extension Agent.

Spray...

• Use a household spray or an aerosol bomb to kill mosquitoes, flies or other insects that get into buildings.
• Do not apply oil-based sprays to flowers or ornamental plants. Spray shrubbery and shaded areas of buildings to kill adult insects.
• Contact your County Extension Agent for specific recommendations.

Use repellant...

• Stay indoors, especially in the evening.
• Persons who must go outside at dusk should use a repellent on exposed parts of the body and clothing.