AFTER  THE  STORM  CHECKLIST

Immediately report property damage to your agent or insurance company. If you are unable to reach your agent or company, call the Florida Department of Financial Services at 1-800-22STORM.

• Secure your property.
• Remove valuable items.
• Lock windows and doors.
• Contact your agent and leave a phone number where you can be reached.

Beware of fly-by-night repair businesses...

Hire licensed, reputable, preferably local service people.

• Always demand positive identification and proof of license.
• Make sure your name is on the claim check.
• DISASTER ASSISTANCE INSURANCE HELPLINE:
  1-800-22STORM  /  (1-800-227-8676)

(SOURCE:  Florida Department of Financial Services, 2006)

CARING  FOR  FLOODED  LAWNS

CLEARING  DEBRIS FROM  LAND

You are responsible for clearing debris from your own property.

Determine priorities...

After a severe storm, priorities for clearing debris from land should be determined by:

• Land use and value - Clear streets and roads to allow emergency vehicles to pass freely. In pastures, remove any lumber containing nails or other pieces of metal that could injure
  livestock.
• Equipment available - Power saws, tractors, bulldozers, and trucks can be used to move fallen trees. If you have access to small equipment only, remove tree roots and small limbs before attempting to clear the area.
• Type of debris - Different vegetation requires different clean-up and salvage procedures. In woodlots and forests experienced foresters should designate salvageable timber. Specialized equipment may be needed to clear large areas efficiently.

Remove debris...

Several methods may be used to remove tree debris:

Bulldozing...

• Inspect damaged trees to see if they can be salvaged. Contact an Extension horticulturist or forestry specialist for this work.
• Remove valuable trees before clearing debris.
• If possible, attach a rake to the front of the bulldozer. This will allow most of the soil to pass through the teeth, eliminating undesirable mounds of soil.
• Remove the stumps. If bulldozers will be used, leave stumps 6 to 10 feet high for leverage. If a stump grinder will be used remove the trees at ground level.

Burial...

Tree debris can be buried, but the cost is high. Use a chipping machine to eliminate smaller branches and reduce the amount of burial space needed.

Landfill...

Tree debris can be placed in erosion gullies (where the land is not practical for terracing) or in swamps or low-lying areas. Consult a water resource specialist to determine how the landfill will alter the water’s path. You will need a bulldozer or other large equipment for this work. It is dangerous to use a tractor to push debris into gullies.

Burning...

Let trees dry until foliage begins to fall. Put debris in large compact piles and cover with fuel oil. Stoke piles and keep fire alive until all woody material is burned. In some areas you may need a permit to burn debris. Burning may be prohibited in some communities because of smoke pollution.

Safety...

If you are unaccustomed to working with damaged or fallen timber, observe safety precautions to prevent injury or death.

• Stabilize ladders when pruning trees, or climb into trees to prune. Use a safety rope.
• Watch for falling limbs.
• Be careful of electric power lines. Leave extensive pruning around power lines to power companies. Wet limbs or dirt- or soil-soaked control ropes on pruning equipment can be hazardous. Do not use pruning equipment with metal handles.
• Observe safety precautions with chain saws. Use a sharp saw. Shut off motor, even when you are moving only a few feet. Remember that you can’t shout or hear warnings when the saw is running.
• Clear the area before beginning to saw limbs or trees. Determine the direction the tree will fall. Do not allow trees to fall into other tree branches. Plan an escape route in case the tree jumps off the stump when it is cut.

(SOURCE:  The Disaster Handbook - National Edition, Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences, University of Florida, Clearing Debris from Land, Section 5.35)

DAMAGED  SHADE,  ORNAMENTAL  AND  FRUIT  TREES

The type of care you give damaged trees should depend on their age, the extent and type of damage, and the time required for surrounding soil to reach normal moisture levels.

A tree’s age will largely determine its ability to recover. A young, vigorous tree will be more likely to survive than an older one, though sometimes an older tree’s deep roots will help it withstand the force of a flood. In general, a damaged older tree will be weakened more than a young tree receiving the same damage.

Damage to trees may include fallen trees, broken and torn limbs, wounds, split branches, uprooting, weakening and exposed roots.

Fallen trees...

Plan ahead before deciding what to do with fallen trees. In general, it is best to reset only small trees since large trees will be weakened and may fall again, perhaps damaging property. Decide what to do with tree stumps. If you are going to leave them, cut them off flush with the ground. If you plan to remove them, leave 4 feet of stump standing. Removal will be cheaper and easier if the stump can be pulled, rather than dug out.

• Cut off broken or torn limbs to avoid unnecessary bark stripping. Leave a smooth finish flush with the trunk or branch from which you prune.
• Paint outer edges of the cut with shellac or wound dressing. Cover the entire exposed wood surface with a prepared tree paint or emulsifiable asphalt.
• Do not use ordinary household paint as it may injure tender tissue and retard healing.
• On magnolia, ornamental cherry, peach and plum trees, use spar varnish.
• To remove large, heavy limbs, use three cuts to avoid ripping bark and wood.
• Make a cut on the underside of the limb, about 1 foot from the trunk or branch from which you are pruning. Cut only about one-third through the limb.
• Make a second cut on the upper side of the limb, about 2 to 6 inches farther out on the limb than the first cut. Continue sawing until the branch splits off.
• Remove the remaining stub by making a single cut flush with the trunk or branch from which you are pruning. Paint as described in step 2 above.

• Remove all jagged and protruding wood. Make smooth, clean cuts with a saw or chisel.
• If the wounds are bark wounds, remove loose bark. To remove bark, make smooth, clean cuts to form a boat-shaped area pointed at both ends.
• Paint the edges with shellac and the exposed wood surfaces with a prepared tree paint or creosote and asphalt.

• Bore through the trunk or branch above the split where the screw rod is to be inserted.
• Make the hole 1/16 inch smaller in diameter than the diameter of the screw rod.
• Insert the screw rod until the point is nearly to the opposite side.
• Cut off the protruding end and paint over it.
• If the split is long, insert as many screw rods as necessary, 12 to 18 inches apart. Or use regular bolts with washers on each end. Countersink the bolt so the washers will rest on the hardwood.

Uprooted trees...

When straightened, these trees will require bracing for a long time. Larger trees and shrubs will almost always be weakened. Before you reset a tree, cut, smooth and paint all jagged and irregular root breaks. After resetting, water the tree well and keep it watered during dry periods. Do not remove guy wires or braces for at least two years. Prune a damaged tree just enough to balance root losses. Cut out broken, diseased and malformed branches to give the tree a desirable shape. Fertilization may help induce good growth.

Weakened trees...

• Insert tag bolts from one-half to one-third of the way between the base and the tip of the branches you want to brace.
• Attach the cable ends to the bolts and tighten the nuts to draw the cable taut. A block and tackle will make the job easier.
• Avoid using short lengths of cable low in the tree.

• Remove silt and sand deposits. Prevent further damage to root systems by removing all deposits to soil level before the flood.
• Check soil moisture. The variety and species of trees and the soil’s natural ability to retain or expel excess moisture will determine what actions are necessary to avoid losses due to excess moisture.
• Mulching is safer than fertilizing for damaged trees.

(SOURCE:  The Disaster Handbook - National Edition, Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences, University of Florida, Damaged Shade, Ornamental and Fruit Trees, Section 5.40)

CARING  FOR  HURRICANE-DAMAGED  PALMS

DISPOSING  OF  ANIMAL  CARCASSES

(SOURCE:  The Disaster Handbook - National Edition, Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences, University of Florida, Disposing of Animal Carcasses, Section 4.19)

Lista  Para  Despues  De  Una  Catastrofe

Haga las reparaciones de emergencia que sean necesarias y mantenga documentación de los gastos de las reparaciones.

• Su póliza de seguros le requiere que haga las reparaciones que sean necesarias para que no empeore la pérdida a su casa y sus pertenencias personales. Guarde todos los recibos y tome fotografias de los danos antes y despues de las reparaciones para presentarlas con su reclamación.

Tome precauciones silos daños le requiere que abandone su casa.

• Proteja su propiedad
• Llame a su agente y déjele el número de teléfonos donde se pueda comunicar con usted.
• Llévese todos los articulos de valor.
• Cierre bien las puertas y ventanas.
 

Tenga cuidado con los negocios sospechosos que quieran hacerle reparaciones a su casa.

• Use una persona que esté licenciada, de buena reputación y preferiblemente una persona que rinde servicios localmente.

Es bueno familializarse con las varias clases de ajustadores que existen: ajustador contratado por la compañia, ajustador que trabaja independientemente y ajustador público.

Cuídese de no caer en las tentaciones de ajustadores sin escrúpulos que estimulen a aquellas personas víctimas de una catástrofe a que fraudulamente exageren la cantidad de su reclamo.

Tenga cuidado con ajustadores que no están licenciados. 

• En la Florida está prohibido que una persona que no esté licenciada haga ajustes.
• Conozca con quien está haciendo negocios. Demande que le enseñe una identificaciôn positiva de quién es como tambien prueba de su licencia.

Asegúrese que su nombre aparece en el cheque del reclamo.

LINEA DE AYUDA DURANTE UNA CATÁSTROFE
1-800-22STORM / (1-800-227-8676)

(SOURCE:  Florida Department of Financial Services, 2006) 

CONTROLLING  INSECTS

(SOURCE:  The Disaster Handbook 1998 National Edition, Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences, University of Florida,  Controlling Insects, Section 4.20)

EMERGENCY  SANITATION

After a storm, water and sewage lines may be disrupted; and you may need to improvise emergency sanitation facilities.

Supplies...

• Always have basic sanitation supplies on hand.
• Medium-sized plastic bucket with tight lid.
• Plastic garbage bags and ties (heavy duty).
• Household chlorine bleach.
• Soap, liquid detergent.
• Toilet paper.
• Towelettes.

SANITATION

To build a makeshift toilet...

If sewage lines are broken but the toilet bowl is usable, place a garbage bag inside the bowl. If the toilet is completely backed up, make your own. Line a medium-sized bucket with a garbage bag, and make a toilet seat out of two boards placed parallel to each other across the bucket. An old toilet seat will also work.

To sanitize waste...

After each use, pour a disinfectant such as bleach into the container. This will help avoid infection and stop the spread of disease. Cover the container tightly when not in use.

To dispose of waste...

Bury garbage and human waste to avoid the spread of disease by rats and insects. Dig a pit 2 to 3 feet deep and at least 50 feet downhill or away from any well, spring or water supply. If the garbage cannot be buried immediately, strain any liquids into the emergency toilet. Wrap the residue in several layers of newspapers and store it in a large can with a tight-fitting lid. Place the can outside until it can be buried.

• Rubbing alcohol.
• Lotions containing alcohol.
• Shaving lotion.
• Face creams and lotions.
• Towelettes.
• Wet wash cloth - Use a wet wash cloth to clean teeth, wash face, comb hair and wash body.
• Makeshift shower - Use a spray bottle to shower.

Disinfectants...

The best choice is a solution of 1 part liquid chlorine bleach to 10 parts water. Other commercial disinfectants include HTH, or calcium hypochlorite, which is available at swimming pool supply stores, and powdered, chlorinated lime, which is available at building supply stores.

• Keep body, hands, and cooking and eating utensils clean.
• Use proper plates or eat from the original food containers if water is not available for washing dishes.
• Wash and peel all fruits and vegetables.
• Keep all food in covered containers.
• Prepare only as much as will be eaten at each meal.

(SOURCE:  The Disaster Handbook 1998 National Edition, Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences, University of Florida, Emergency Sanitation, Section 4.14)

EMERGENCY TREATMENT AND MANAGEMENT OF HORSES 

The horse population is often at greater risk for traumatic injury than the human population when natural disasters strike because of the conditions under which horses are normally maintained. Stabling may be destroyed or horses may escape from their normal confinements, resulting in traumatic injury.  When these emergency situations arise, veterinarians unfamiliar with equine practice may be requested to assist with the capture and emergency treatment of horses. These guidelines are designed to serve as a quick reference for those veterinarians.

Horses that cannot be caught may have to be sedated with intramuscular tranquilizers administered with a dart gun. Most city and county animal control departments will have dart guns available for such purposes. After capture any intact male animals (other than unweaned foals) should be separated from the group. Anyone handling a tranquilized horse should always remain alert. A horse’s “fight or flight” reaction may cause it to “fight” the tranquilizer if frightened enough. All it takes is a split second for a horse to kick out in fear and injure an unwary handler.

Horses with EIA (equine infectious anemia) identification should be quarantined at least 400 yards from other horses until they can be reunited with other quarantined EIA horses.

Safe fences can be constructed from electrical fencing using thin gauge smooth wire and a battery-powered electrical source. Non-electric smooth wire or board fence is also acceptable and may be produced from available materials. If wire fencing is used, light-colored strips of cloth should be tied along the individual wire strands at 4 to 6 foot intervals to allow better demarcation of the fence.

Remember, the smaller the group, the more manageable individual animals will be. The horses should be closely observed immediately after being confined. Individual animals with aggressive behavior should be noted, and placed in a separate corral or with a different group of horses. Severely injured horses should be provided with an individual stall if possible. Most stallions will need to be provided with an individual stall or pen. Additionally, stallions that must be placed in pens or stalls located immediately next to mares will need to be separated by a solid barrier. If a stallion must be housed anywhere near mares, a menthol ointment, such as Vick’s VapoRub, may be liberally applied to the stallion’s nostrils often. This may help to keep him from smelling the mares.

When horses are stabled in large groups, certain animals may become territorial, denying others access to feed or water if only one source is available. At least two water sources and several feed sources should be made available in eveiy corral containing multiple horses.

The horses’ diet will depend upon the availability of feed in the area following the disaster. The feedstuff of choice would be a grass hay such as timothy, fed at 10 lb of hay per 450 kg of bodyweight or equivalent to approximately one fifth of a bale/horse/day. (Use grasses such as coastal bermuda grass pangola only if no other grass is available.) Unless there are juvenile animals, lactating mares or severely underweight animals, do not feed grain; it may predispose the horses to laminitis and/or colic.

Wounds heal with less exuberant granulation tissue if left unbandaged, unless they are located in an area of excessive motion or tension. Deeper wounds and puncture wounds should be explored to determine the extent of the wound and to make sure there is not a foreign body present.

The vascular integrity of the wound area should be evaluated. A loss of local blood supply may impede healing and predispose the wound to infection. The wound should be lavaged with a sterile saline or dilute povidone iodine solution daily until filled with granulation tissue. The wound should be cleaned twice a day with hydrotherapy followed by lavage with sterile saline.

If a fracture is suspected, the joint above and below the fracture should be immobilized as well as possible with a Robert-Jones bandage until radiographs can be obtained. A support wrap should be applied to the opposite limb. Accurate records of all medical treatments and surgical manipulations should be kept.

Medication doses...

Antibiotics

• Procaine G Penicillin: 25,000 to 40,000 lU/kg IM, BID or SID
• Trimethopnm-sulfa: 20 to 30 mg/kg P0, BID
• Gentamicin: 6.6 mg/kg, N or IM d 24 hrs
• Metronidazole: 15 mg/kg P0, TID
• Ceftiofur: 2.2 to 4.4 mg/kg IM or N, BID
• Sedatives
• Xylazine: 0.25 to 1.0 mg/kg IV or IM
• Detomidine: 0.01 to 0.02 mg/kg N or IM
• Butorphanol: 0.01 to 0.03 mg/kg IV or 0.03 to 0.1 mg/kg IM
• Acepromazine: 0.02 to 0.06 mg/kg IV or IM
• Ketamine: 2.2 mg/kg N after xylazine (for anesthesia)

Anti-inflammatory drugs

• Phenylbutazóne: 2.2 to 4.4 mg/kg P0 or N, BID or SID
• Flunixin megluniine: 0.25 to 1.0 mg/kg IV or IM, SID or BID
• Dexamethasone: 0.02 to 0.2 mg/kg IM or N or P0, SID
• DMSO: 0.5to 1.Omg/kgasalo%solnIV, BID

(SOURCE:  The Disaster Handbook - National Edition, US Department of Agriculture and Biological Engineering Department, Cooperative Extension Service, University of Florida, FAS, Florida A&M University Cooperative Extension Program and Boards of County Commissioners Cooperating, Emergency Treatment and Management of Horses Under Hurricane Conditions Section 4.19)

INCOME  TAX  DEDUCTIONS  FOR  PROPERTY  LOSS

Property losses from natural disasters are tax deductible. Such deductions, which are allowed for partial or total loss of personal or business property, could greatly reduce the amount of federal income taxes owed for the year the disaster occurred. Here are the steps to take after a disaster.

• The kind of disaster and when it occurred.
• That the damage was a direct result of the disaster.
• That you were the owner of the property.
• Your income tax basis in the property. In general, this is the original cost of the property plus the cost of any improvements before the loss, minus depreciation claimed for income tax purposes (for business and rental property).
Fair market value before and after the storm.

Any insurance benefits or other compensation received including free repairs, restoration and clean-up from any disaster relief agencies. Before-and-after photographs, receipts, canceled checks, deeds, purchase contracts and professional appraisals are good supporting evidence for casualty claims.

Itemizing tax deductions...

If you itemize your tax deductions, you may deduct casualty losses from fire, storm, theft or property destroyed by some sudden external force. However, you must reduce the deduction by any reimbursements or payments received to rebuild or restore property.

Additional resources...

• Your County Extension office
• Internal Revenue Service:
  (800) 829-3676 for forms
  (800) 829-1041 for the Casualty Loss Department
• Your local emergency government office
• The American Red Cross
• Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA)

• IRS Tax Form 4684 and instruction sheet.

(SOURCE:  The Disaster Handbook 1998 National Edition, Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences, University of Florida, Income Tax Deductions for Property Loss, Section 4.39)

INSURANCE  ADJUSTER  ALERT

• You may be approached by an Insurance Adjuster who is not licensed to adjust insurance claims in Florida.
• If you are approached by any Adjuster, ask them to show you proof of licensure in Florida. To verify licensure call 1-800-22-STORM.
• Unlicensed Insurance Adjusters have not demonstrated their competency or fitness to adjust claims in Florida.
• To report unlicensed Insurance Adjusters, or for other insurance related assistance, please call 1-800-22-STORM.

Types of adjusters...

• Company Adjusters - Are Insurance Adjusters who are employees of your insurance company. They will not charge you a fee.
• Independent Adjusters - Are Insurance Adjusters your insurance company has hired to represent them. They will not charge you a fee.
• Public Adjusters - Are Insurance Adjusters who do not work for any insurance company. They work for you, the insured. You hire them by signing a contract agreeing to pay the Public Adjuster a percentage of your claim payment for their services. The percentage cannot exceed 10% of your claim payment on a residential or commercial loss.
• Consumers are encouraged to negotiate a percentage less than the 10% maximum.

(SOURCE: Florida Department of Financial Services, 2006)

ALERTA  DE  TASADOR

CUIDADO

Tasadores Publicos SIN licencia an demonstrado dificultad y falta de conocimiento profesional para tasar reclamaciones en el estado de la Florida. Tasadores Publicos SIN licencia no tienen el seguro necesario para protejer al consumidor. Tasadores SIN licencia NO son procesados por el Departaniento coma son los tasadores profesionales que obtienen licencia de nuestro Departamento. Al contratar los servicios de un tasador publico usted esta autorisando que el paqo de su compañia de seciuro por daños a su propiedad sean hechos a nombre suyo, del banco a compañia de financiamiento y del tasador.

Es una felonia (delito con agravantes) presentarse u ofreser servicios que solo pueden ser rendidos por un tasador con licencia de la Florida. (626.8738, F.S.)

LOCALIZE  SUS  CRIADEROS  DE  MOSQUITOS

Tiene ustéd mosquitos en su casa y en su jardin? Puede que ustéd están creandose su propio problema. En sujardin puede tener criaderos de:

• Mosquitos de la encefalitis
• Mosquitos caseros
• El mosquito tigre Asiático
• Mosquitos de la fiebre amarilla
• Mosquitos de huecos en arboles
• Mosquito de la malaria
• Mosquitos de bromilias

La solución es simple, barata y no necesita usar insecticidas. Busque en sujardin los criaderos identificados en este folleto y siga las instrucciones indicadas.

Canales de desagüe de techos se pueden tupir y mantener agua donde se crian mosquitos. Esta fuente de mosquitos muchas veces se pasa por alto. Necesitara una escalera.

Inspeccione los bebederos de animales semanalmente y baldee para eliminar las larvas de los mosquitos. Peces larvivoros pueden ser beneficiosos en bebederos a Ia sombra.

Gomas de auto desechadas son criaderos favoritos del mosquito de la fiebre amarilla y otros. Bote las gomas o mantengalas bajo techo. Si esto no es posible, póngalas una sobre otra en forma de columna y cubra la parte superior de cada columna.

El agua de lluvia es buena para tomar y para regar las plantas ornamentales. A los mosquitos también les gusta. Cubra los barriles de agua con tela metalica para que los mosquitos no puedan poner huevos en estos.

Huecos donde se acumula agua en los troncos y ramas de los arboles son criaderos favoritos de algunas especies de mosquitos. Lienelos con arena o cemento.

Techos pianos que reciben muchas hojas y desechos vegetales pueden albergar mosquitos. Limpieza del techo soluciona el problema.

Mosquitos en charcas y estanques naturales o artificiales se pueden prevenir eliminando toda la egetación o abasteciendolos de peces larvivoros.

Botes y lanchas en remoiques, en diques de carena, o fuera de uso pueden retener agua y criar osquitos si no están cubiertos o vueltos bocabajo. Vaya a pescar de vez en cuando o achique el agua de su bote.

Vasos pam ayes, barbacoas, ceniceros y otros recipientes que mantienen agua pueden criar mosquitos. Cúbralos, voltielos bocabajo, o baldielos por lo menos una vez por semana.

(SOURCE:  The Disaster Handbook 1998 National Edition - Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences, University of Florida, Localize sus Criaderos de Mosquitos, Section 4.22s)

PREVENTING  ILLNESS  THROUGH  HYGIENE  AND  SANITATION

Poor sanitation can cause you to get sick. Prevent illness by keeping yourself and your surroundings as clean as possible.

Personal cleanliness...

• Wash your hands often, especially before eating, and after going to the toilet and diapering the baby.
• Keep your body clean by taking a daily bath. If water is a problem, take a pan bath. You can also shower in the rain.
• Wash your hair at least once or twice weekly.
• If nursing a baby, wash your breast before feeding the baby.
• If your baby is on formula, use clean bottles and nipples.
• Bathe baby daily. Wipe its bottom when changing diapers.
• Baking soda can be used to brush your teeth and as a deodorant. Also use it for baby's heat and diaper rash.

Clean equipment...

• Use clean utensils.
• Wash dishes in water with chlorine bleach in it.
• Inspect bedding.
• Remove soil, and keep the bedding as clean as possible.
• Clean up spills quickly to keep bugs and ants away.

Garbage and waste...

• Use a chemical or portable toilet if available. If not, dig a latrine or use a covered bucket.
• Wear shoes to prevent diseases and protect against cuts and punctures.

(SOURCE:  The Disaster Handbook 1998 National Edition, Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences, University of Florida, Preventing illness through Hygiene and Sanitation, Section 4.16)

SALVAGING  HOUSEHOLD  FURNITURE

Before starting to salvage damaged furniture, decide which pieces are worth restoring.  Such decisions should be based on:

• Extent of damage
• Cost of the article
• Sentimental value
• Cost of restoration

Consider each piece individually. Antiques may be worth the time, effort and expense of restoration. Unless damage is severe, you can likely clean, reglue and refmish antiques at home. Extensive repair or re-veneering should be done at a reliable furniture repair shop.

Solid wood furniture can usually be restored, unless damage is severe. You will probably need to clean, dry and reglue the piece. Slightly warped boards may be removed and straightened.

Wood-veneered furniture is available in many qualities. Extensive damage may be costly to repair. If veneer is loose in just a few places, you may be able to repair it.

Upholstered furniture may be salvageable, depending on its general condition. Flooded pieces will need to be cleaned and dried, and mildew should be removed. If damage is extensive, you may have to replace padding and upholstery; this is expensive, it might be wiser to apply the money toward new furniture.

You will not need to repair all pieces immediately. Any furniture worthy of repair should be completely cleaned, dried and stored in a dry, well-ventilated place until you have time to repair it.

Salvaging flooded upholstered furniture...

Upholstered furniture that has been submerged in flood water may be impossible to salvage if it has been badly soaked. If the piece seems worth the effort, however, you will need to clean and oil the springs, replace the stuffing and clean the frame.

Stuffing and covering...

1. Remove furniture coverings using a ripping tool, hammer or tack puller, screwdriver or chisel.
2. Remove all tacks from the frame.
3. Wash coverings.
4. Throw away all cotton stuffing. You can dry, fumigate, and sometimes reuse padding made of materials other than cotton.

Springs and frame...

1. Wipe offsprings and frame. Dry all metal parts and paint them with rust-inhibiting paint. Oil springs.
2. Store wood furniture where it will dry out slowly.

Mildew...

Mildew may have developed on damp or wet furniture. Mildew is a gray-white mold that leaves stains and rots fabric unless it is removed promptly. To remove mildew or mildew spots:

1. Brush with a broom to remove loose mold from outer covering. Do this outdoors if possible, so you don’t scatter mildew spots (which can start new growth) in the house.
2. Vacuum the surface to draw out mold. Dispose of the vacuum cleaner bag outside to avoid scattering mold spores in the house.
3. If mildew remains and fabric is washable, sponge lightly with thick soap or detergent suds. Wipe with a clean, damp cloth. Get as little water on the fabric as possible so the padding doesn’t get wet.
4. If mold remains, wipe the furniture with a damp cloth dipped in dilute alcohol (1 cup denatured alcohol to 1 cup water) or a chlorine bleach solution (¼-teaspoon bleach to a cup of water). Test in an area that is hidden.
5. Dry the article thoroughly.
6. Use a low-pressure spray containing a fungicide to get rid of musty odors and remaining mildew. Moisten all surfaces thoroughly. Re-spray frequently if mildew is a continuing problem. Spraying rooms with an aerosol material will not eliminate mildew problems.
7. If molds have grown into inner part of furniture, send furniture to a dry cleaning or storage company for thorough drying and fumigation. Fumigation will kill molds present at the time, but will not protect against future attacks.

SALVAGING  FLOODED WOODEN FURNITURE

Wooden furniture damaged by floods can best be salvaged through slow drying and proper repair.

1. Take furniture outdoors and remove as many drawers, slides and removable parts as possible. Drawers and doors will probably be stuck tight. Do not try to force them out from the front. After allowing to dry for a brief period, use a screwdriver or chisel to remove the back and push out the drawer from behind.
2. After you have removed movable parts, clean off mud and dirt, using a hose if necessary.
3. Take all furniture indoors and store it where it will dry slowly. Furniture left in the sun to dry will warp and twist out of shape.
4. When furniture is dry, reglue it if necessary. You will need woodworking tools and clamps to reglue some pieces. Before you start, decide whether you have the time, equipment and ability to do the work. Consult an experienced cabinetmaker if
   necessary. To reglue loose joints, thoroughly clean joints of old glue so the area will be as clean and free of glue as possible. Use white all-purpose glue, following the directions on the container. Hold parts together with rope tourniquets or suitable
   clamps. To prevent damage from ropes or clamps, pad contact areas with cloth protection.

Damp furniture - removing white spots...

Furniture that has been submerged in flood waters will frequently exhibit mildew or mold which can be removed with warm soapy (mild detergent) water and a soft cloth. White spots or a cloudy film may develop on damp furniture that has not been submerged. To remove white spots:

1. If the entire surface is affected, rub with a damp cloth dipped in turpentine or in a solution of ¼ cup household ammonia and ½-cup water. Wipe dry at once and polish with wax or furniture polish.
2. If color is not restored, dip 000 steel wool in oil (boiled linseed, olive, mineral or lemon). Rub lightly with the wood grain. Wipe with a soft cloth and re-wax.
3. For deep spots use a drop or two of ammonia on a damp cloth. Rub at once with a dry cloth. Polish. Rubbing cigarette ashes, powdered pumice or a piece of walnut into spots may help remove them.
4. If spots remain after all efforts to remove them, the piece should be stripped of the old finish and refinished.

Veneered furniture...

Thoroughly dry furniture. If veneer is loose in just a few places, carefully scrape glue under loose areas.

1. Press veneer back in place. Place wax paper over affected area; heat with warm iron. Remove iron and place weights on the area.
2. If veneering doesn’t stay in place or is bubbled, carefully slit the loose veneer with a razor blade and apply a good quality glue. Weights are applied after covering glued spots with wax paper to prevent excess glue (which may spurt out when pressure is applied) from gluing the weights to the furniture.

Repairing badly damaged veneered furniture requires special skill and tools. Unless you are an experienced woodworker, don’t attempt the job yourself. Take the furniture to a cabinetmaker or have your dealer return it to the factory for repair.

If insurance allows part value on flood-damaged furniture, it may be financially worthwhile to apply the money to new articles, rather than pay for extensive repairs.

Straightening warped furniture boards...

Slightly warped furniture boards, as in table or dresser tops, often can be straightened if they are solid wood. However, do not attempt to straighten severely warped parts, veneered parts (veneer usually separates) or parts with an elaborate grain, such as curly
maple. If such pieces are worth salvage expense, send them to a reliable furniture repair shop. Get a cost estimate before leaving the piece for repair. To straighten slightly warped boards:

1. Remove the warped board from the furniture.
2. Strip the board of its old finish. A clean board will straighten better than a finished board. You may have to strip the entire piece of furniture to attain an even finish when the board is straightened, refinished and replaced.
3. The principle of warp removal is to add moisture to the dry side (concave) and remove it from the wet side (convex). Do this by: 1. Placing the board with the wet side (convex) down on a radiator or heat vent in the winter. 2. Placing wet side (concave) up in the direct rays of the sun.  With either method keep the concave side moist with damp cloths, place bricks or other weights on top of the board and leave it for several days or until board is straight.
4. Clamp board in flat position when it has straightened. Place clamps 12 inches apart or less. Use small pieces of wood or pads between board and clamps to protect the board. Loosen clamps and move them slightly once or twice a day to prevent splitting. You may place several boards in the same clamps. Insert small wooden blocks between boards for air space.
5. Stand on end and leave in the clamped position until thoroughly dry. This will take from several days to several weeks.
6. Paint or refinish as desired. Apply the finish to both underside and top of board. This will keep the board from absorbing moisture and from eventually re-warping.

(Source:  The Disaster Handbook - National Edition, Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences, University of Florida, Salvaging Household Furniture, Section 5.22)

SIX  STEPS  IN  MAKING  AN  INSURANCE  CLAIM

Safety First! Before entering a building, check for structural damage. Don’t go in if there is any chance of the building collapsing. Be careful walking around. Upon entering the building, do not use open flames, since gas may be trapped inside. Instead, use your flashlight to light your way. Keep power off until an electrician has inspected your system for safety.

Step One:  Contact your agent immediately...

• Give your name, address, policy number, and the date and time of your loss.
• Make sure to tell them where you can be reached, especially if you are unable to stay in your home.
• Follow up the call with a letter detailing the problem. Keep a copy of the letter.
• Your insurance agent will arrange for an adjustor to visit your property and assess the damage. Be sure the adjustor is properly licensed.
• You can call the Insurance Consumer Help Line, toll-free, at 1-800-342-2762.

Step Two:  Carefully document your losses...

• Make a detailed list of lost or damaged property.
• Videotape or photograph damaged property before beginning any repairs.
• Do not throw away damaged property without your adjustor’s approval.
• Try to document the value of each object lost. Bills of sale, canceled checks, charge account records, and insurance evaluations are good evidence. If you have no such records, estimate the value, and give purchase place and date of purchase. Include this information with your list.
• List cleaning and repair bills, including materials, cost of rental equipment, and depreciation of purchased equipment.
• A list of any additional living expenses you incur if your home is so severely damaged that you have to find other accommodations while repairs are being made, including motel and restaurant bills, home rental or car rental.

Step Three:  Protect your property from further damage or theft...

• Patch roofs temporarily. Cover broken windows with boards or plastic.
If household furnishings are exposed to weather, move them to a safe location for storage.

Remember the documentation from Step 2! Save receipts for what you spend and submit them to your insurance company for reimbursement.

If your home has been flooded, protect your family’s health by cleaning up your house right away. Floodwaters pick up sewage and chemicals from roads, farms and factories.

Throw out foods and medicines that may have come into contact with floodwater.

Dry out water-damaged furnishings and clothing as soon as possible to prevent fading and deterioration. You may wish to take some items to a reliable dry cleaner.

Step Four:  Working with your adjustor...

• Your insurance agent will arrange for an adjustor to visit your property and assess the damage. Be sure the adjustor is properly licensed. You can call the Insurance Consumer Help Line, toll-free, at 1-800-342-2762.
• Be sure that you or a trusted advisor is present when the adjustor visits the site.
• Work with the adjustor. It is their job to assist you and review your claim. The adjustor will inspect your list of lost or damaged property. The adjustor will work with you to calculate the value of the items on the list and prepare a repair estimate of damage to the property.
• You and your adjustor need to come to an agreement as to the scope of damage, which is an agreement as to what needs to be repaired or replaced without a dollar amount.
• Make sure you know what needs to be done to follow up on this agreement and why. If you do not, ask the adjustor for instructions in writing.

Step Five:  Settling your claim...

• You may settle personal property and structural claims at separate times, although your adjustor may suggest that you file the claims together. Filing separately allows you to take the time needed to determine the full extent of your losses.
• Don’t be in a hurry to settle your claim. Although you may want to have your damage claim settled as quickly as possible, it is sometimes advisable to wait until all the damage has been discovered. Damages overlooked in an early estimate may become apparent later. If you are dissatisfied with the settlement offer, talk things over with your agent and adjustor.
• If you and your adjustor cannot reach a settlement, you may obtain mediation through the state Department of Insurance. Mediation is an informal process where a neutral third party tries to help the parties resolve the dispute. Call the Insurance Consumer Help Line, toll-free at 1-800-342-2762 for information. 

Step Six:  Repairing your home...

• You or your insurance company may contract for the repair of your home. See if the contractor holds a proper license by contacting your state Department of Business and Professional Regulation.
• Contact the reputable licensed and insured firm to have your damage repaired. Beware of door-to-door sellers. Sometimes undependable workers enter a damaged area, make cheap repairs, and leave before the residents discover that the repairs are inadequate. If your local contractor cannot do the work, ask them to recommend someone.
Get a written estimate that includes any oral promises the contractor made. But remember to ask if there’s a charge for an estimate before allowing anyone into your home.
Your insurance company may initially pay you a sum equal to the actual cash value, unless you request minimal repairs. The company will withhold the balance of the full replacement cost until after you complete the repairs.

(SOURCE:  The Disaster Handbook, Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences, University of Florida, Agricultural and Biological Engineering Department, Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences, University of Florida, Tips on Handling Your Flood Insurance Claim, Section 4.31; FEMA.)

Tracking  Down  Your  Mosquito  Problems

Do you have mosquitoes in your house and yard? These insects may be growing in your yard:

• St. Louis encephalitis mosquitoes
• Southern house mosquitoes
• Asian tiger mosquitoes
• Yellow fever mosquitoes
• Tree hole mosquitoes
• Malaria mosquitoes
• Bromeliad mosquitoes

The solution is simple, cheap and pesticide-free. Check your yard for breeding in all locations mentioned and follow these directions.

Do not overlook a single small pool of water; even if there are no mosquito larvae present, they will be back. A half-cup of water can produce enough mosquitoes to cause a problem. Mosquito larvae and pupae will wiggle to the bottom of the container if disturbed. They are 1/8 to 1/2 inch long.

• Potted plants with pans underneath that hold water are good breeding sites. Don’t over-water plants; remove the pan if possible or dump any unnecessary water.
  
• Drainage ditches with emergent vegetation are big producers. Remove the vegetation and obstructions to water flow, or call your highway department.
  
• Standing water in low grassy areas, tire tracks and swales can breed mosquitoes. Fill and regrade if possible and keep grass mowed. Check under faucets.
  
• Roof gutters plugged with leaves hold water and mosquito larvae.
  
• Replace the water in pet dishes every couple of days.
  
• Trash or “spare parts” and the like have lots of breeding places. Remove items or cover what cannot be thrown away.
  
• Check large animal water troughs weekly and flush to remove mosquito larvae. Minnows may help in shaded troughs.
  
• Old tires are a favorite of yellow fever and tiger mosquitoes. Discard tires or put in a building. If not possible, stack tires flat and cover the top of each stack.
  
• Cover rain barrels with house screening to prevent mosquitoes from laying eggs.
  
• Unused or poorly maintained pools, particularly kiddie wading pools, will breed mosquitoes. Empty pools, flush weekly or add chlorine as required.
  
• Bromeliads and other plants that hold water need to be checked weekly and flushed with water to remove larvae that are sometimes difficult to see among the debris in the leaf axil.
  
• Water-filled tree holes are favorite breeding sites. Check branches as well as the trunk for holes. Fill with sand or cement.
  
• Flat roofs that get lots of leaf litter can harbor mosquitoes. Removing the debris should solve the problem.
  
• Mosquitoes in natural or man-made ponds can be prevented by removing any vegetation or stocking with minnows.
  
• Boats on trailers, dry docked or unused, will collect water and breed mosquitoes if not covered or turned upside down.
  
• Bird baths, barbecue grills, ash trays and other small containers that hold water can produce mosquitoes. Cover grills, overturn or remove containers, or flush with water at least once a week.
  
• In cemeteries, use bronze urns or make sure the drain holes of stone vases are not plugged. Use silk flowers instead of fresh-cut, and place them in a wire holder rather than a container.

If water basins are too large to dump, be sure to cover them tightly so that air will not penetrate the cover. Spraying the water with household insecticides intended for ants, roaches, and flies is ineffective and will not eliminate the problem.

Do not put gasoline, salt and other chemicals in the water. Eliminating the breeding sites is the only sure and safe way to do the job.

(SOURCE:  The Disaster Handbook 1998 National Edition, Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences, University of Florida, Tracking Down Your Mosquito Problems, Section 4.22)

Why  Does  Florida  Experience  Such

High  Numbers  of  Mosquitoes  After  a  Hurricane?

Mosquitoes go through four developmental stages during their life: eggs, larvae, pupae, and adult. Dozens of species of mosquitoes reside in Florida, and the different species have differing means of surviving. In addition to many environmental variables, there are two biological attributes related to mosquito egg-laying that contribute to the numbers of mosquitoes seen and felt during a post-hurricane period. The attributes separate mosquitoes on the basis of the conditions in which they lay their eggs. The two groups are floodwater mosquitoes and standing-water mosquitoes.

Flood water mosquitoes...

Many people associate mosquitoes strictly with standing water, with the belief that mosquitoes have to have water to lay their eggs. The fact is, mosquito eggs need water to HATCH - but some species lay their eggs in moist soil (not standing water) and actually the eggs need to dry out before they can hatch. These mosquitoes are the “floodwater” species.

As far back as one year from the time the floodwater mosquitoes are noticable, the adult female mosquitoes were flying around, feeding on blood, and laying eggs (one female floodwater mosquito has the potential to lay 200 eggs per batch) in moist areas of pastures, citrus furrows, salt-marsh, and swales. These moist areas eventually dry out, and the mosquito eggs also dry and become encased in the cracks and crevices of the dried mud. Because of their unique biology, the eggs need to dry out before they could hatch into larvae. The eggs survive in the dry soil through the winter and spring, and then with rains from storms or hurricanes, these areas are inundated with water. The water that reaches the eggs provides a cue to hatch.

One can consider the potential extent of this habitat by thinking about how much land in Florida is pasture, citrus grove, or large expanses of uninhabited flat land. There are estimates of the number of mosquito eggs in a floodwater habitat between 0.7 and 1.3 million eggs per acre. Yes, per acre. If only a small percentage of those eggs hatched and survived to the adult stage, the number of adult mosquitoes flying around looking for blood at one time is almost incomprehensible.

Unfortunately, for those who are diligent about dumping water and cleaning up containers around  their home, this type of local and small scale effort will not contribute much impact to reducing mosquitoes in the floodwater sites.

Standing water mosquitoes...

Mosquitoes that are not in the “floodwater” group lay their eggs on standing water. Another difference between the two groups is that mosquito eggs in this category cannot withstand drying out. If the water dries up, or the egg gets stranded on the grass or soil, the egg dries and that will be the end; it will not hatch into a larva.

With all the rains in Florida from the 2004 hurricane season that had nowhere to drain, or drained very slowly, there was a lot of water that is just right for the standing-water mosquitoes. Females will lay their eggs on the water surface and the eggs will typically hatch in about 24 hours. Water is necessary to complete the life cycle, and soon the larva will change into pupa and then emerge into an adult that is hungry for blood. After the newly emerged female mates and finds a blood source, she can start the cycle all over again by laying her eggs on the standing water.

The double whammy...

The combination of the egg-laying habits of these two groups of mosquitoes provides for a double whammy put in place by the activity that occurred during 2004. When dry areas flood, the floodwater mosquito eggs hatch. When the floodwater has no where to go, the standing-water mosquitoes have more places to lay their eggs. That is what a large portion of Florida experienced.

What can individuals do to relieve mosquito-biting pressure...

Many people have committed to memory the 5 Ds that have been promoted in recent years and know that one “D” stands for DRAIN the water. But just how are you going to drain an acre full of water? The recommendation to dump the water applies to mosquitoes that lay their eggs in water-holding containers that individual homeowners have control over, such as pet dishes, vases, and cans. The container breeding tips are for average, everyday situations - that is - the times when 4 hurricanes have not passed through and dumped water everywhere! The mosquito-breeding habitats resulting from the types of rain events from hurricanes are too vast for an individual homeowner to attempt to impact. It is best to leave the source reduction and treatment of such vast water sources to the mosquito control agencies.

In counties that have mosquito-control programs, help may not be immediate because there are such large areas that may need to be treated. And it may not be permanent - remember that mosquitoes fly. Even though an area may be treated to knock down the biting mosquitoes, there will likely be re-infestations from other areas due to the wide-spread flooding in the state.

The way to stop a mosquito from biting is by wearing an effective mosquito repellent on the exposed portions of the body. Protective clothing is often mentioned as a deterrent, but during the very warm summer and fall evenings in Florida, especially for those who may not have electricity, long sleeves and long pants may not be practical.

The second best advice is to stay indoors. Check for damage to your home from the storms that may not be obvious. Look for holes in window and door screens; check for any newly formed open areas around your roof and windows where mosquitoes may gain access indoors; if you have pets that have access to both indoors and outdoors, brush their coats with your hands before they come inside to remove any mosquitoes that may be hanging on.

The mantra throughout all four hurricanes in Florida in 2004 was to “please be patient”. In addition to the efforts of mosquito control agencies, wearing repellents, and staying indoors during the evenings, the water does eventually drain and cool weather and shorter days will stop the mosquito breeding.

(SOURCE:  The Disaster Handbook 1998 National Edition, Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences, University of Florida, Why Does Florida Experience Such High Numbers of Mosquitoes After a Hurricane, Fact Sheet IN-171)